When I first started working as an expanded metal grating supplier over a decade ago, I’ll admit I assumed cutting this material was straightforward—just grab a saw and go, right? I quickly learned that was far from the case. Expanded metal grating isn’t like standard sheet metal; its unique structure, where a single sheet is slit and stretched into a grid of uniform, diamond-shaped openings, requires a deliberate approach to avoid warping, burrs, or uneven cuts that would render a piece unfit for its intended use. Whether you’re a contractor tackling a mezzanine floor installation, a fabricator customizing a walkway, or a facility manager repairing a safety grating, knowing how to cut expanded metal grating correctly saves time, money, and frustration. Today, I’m breaking down the methods I’ve taught to our in-house team, shared with customers hundreds of times, and refined over years of hands-on experience. Expanded Metal Grating
First, a quick primer on what expanded metal grating is, because understanding its structure is key to cutting it well. Unlike welded bar grating (made from separate bars joined together) or perforated metal, expanded metal is a single sheet of aluminum, steel, or stainless steel that goes through a cold expansion process: slits are cut into the sheet, then it’s pulled open to create the grid pattern. This means every strand in the grating is a continuous piece of the original material, so it’s stronger than many comparable products, but that same continuity means cutting through it requires working with the grain of the expansion, not against it. Before you pick up any tool, there are two non-negotiable prep steps I always emphasize to customers. Skip these, and even the best tool will give you a messy result.
The first prep step is measuring and marking your cut line accurately. Expanded metal grating’s grid pattern means your line can’t be just a straight mark—you have to align it with the strands’ direction to ensure each cut edge is clean and the opening sizes stay consistent. Most grating has a “direction of expansion” marked (it’s often subtle, but the strands will run longer in one direction than the other). Always mark your cut line perpendicular to the shorter strand direction, because cutting with the longer strand’s grain reduces strain on the material and prevents warping. I recommend using a straightedge (a steel ruler or aluminum guide is best, not a flimsy wooden one) and a soapstone pencil—avoid regular marker or paint, since they smudge on metal and can obscure your line mid-cut. For large pieces, clamp a piece of angle iron to the grating as a guide; this is a trick we use in our warehouse every day to keep cuts straight, even on 10-foot sheets.
The second prep step is securing the grating properly. Expanded metal can shift when you’re cutting, which leads to jagged edges or even tool kickback. Never try to cut a sheet that’s loose on your workbench—even if it’s heavy. I’ve seen customers tape down a sheet with duct tape and end up with a cut that’s ½ inch off, or worse, have the grating move and the blade bind. Use at least four C-clamps: two on either side of your cut line, positioned 6 to 8 inches from the edge, so the area you’re cutting is fully supported. If you’re cutting curved lines or small pieces that won’t fit on a workbench, use a portable work stand designed for metal, or brace the other end of the grating against a wall or another solid surface to eliminate movement.
Now, onto the tools—this is where most people guess wrong. You don’t need a super expensive industrial saw, but you do need the right tool for your specific job, and matching the tool to the grating’s material and thickness is critical. Let’s go through the most common methods, starting with the best for most general use, then moving to specialized options.
For thin to medium thickness grating (10 gauge to ¼ inch, which is what 90% of our customers work with for walkways, handrails, and small mezzanines), a circular saw with a metal-cutting blade is my top recommendation. Wait, not a regular wood-cutting blade—you need a blade with carbide-tipped teeth, designed for non-ferrous metals or steel, depending on your grating material. Carbide teeth are harder than the metal in the grating, so they last longer and make a cleaner cut without overheating. When using a circular saw, set the blade depth so it’s just barely deeper than the thickness of the grating—if the blade is too deep, it will chew up the back edge of the grating, creating ragged burrs. Also, go slow. I know it’s tempting to crank the saw’s speed, but forcing the blade too fast causes heat buildup, which can warp the grating’s edges and dull the blade prematurely. For steel grating, use a speed of around 3,000 RPM; for aluminum, you can go slightly faster (up to 4,500 RPM), but still don’t push it. A pro tip from our fabrication team: spray a light mist of cutting oil along your cut line before starting. The oil reduces friction, keeps the blade cool, and makes the cut smoother—we always have a spray bottle of generic cutting oil by the cutting stations for this exact reason.
If you don’t have a circular saw, or you’re working in a tight spot (like cutting grating that’s already installed in a frame, or in a corner where a circular saw can’t fit), a reciprocating saw with a metal blade works surprisingly well—again, as long as it’s a bi-metal or carbide-tipped blade. The key here is to use a fine-tooth blade: 18 to 24 teeth per inch (TPI) for thin material, 14 to 18 TPI for thicker ¼-inch steel. Coarse blades will tear through the grating’s strands, leaving large burrs and irregular edges. When using a reciprocating saw, clamp the grating extra tight, because the back-and-forth motion can cause vibration. Also, use the saw’s orbital action only if you’re cutting very thin material; for medium thickness, stick to straight action to maintain control. I’ve had customers tell me they used a reciprocal saw without a guide and ended up with a curved cut that had to be ground down—taking an extra 10 seconds to line up your blade with your straightedge saves hours of finishing work later.
Now, what about thicker grating—½ inch or more, like what’s used for heavy-duty industrial walkways or vehicle ramps? For that, a plasma cutter is the most efficient option, but it’s not for beginners. A plasma cutter uses a high-velocity jet of ionized gas to melt metal, so it cuts through thick steel and stainless steel quickly, and the edge is clean enough that minimal grinding is needed. But there are a few caveats: first, if your grating has aluminum, plasma cutting works, but you’ll get more dross (the hardened metal residue on the cut edge) than with steel. Second, always wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE) for plasma cutting: a face shield, heat-resistant gloves, and a fire-resistant apron, since the sparks can be 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’re not comfortable operating a plasma cutter, it’s often worth having your local metal fabrication shop do this cut for you—thick grating is heavy, and a bad cut there can create a safety hazard down the line.
I’ve also seen people use angle grinders with a cutting wheel, and while that works in a pinch, it’s my least recommended method. Angle grinders are messy, produce a lot of sparks, and leave a thick burr that requires extensive grinding to remove. They’re okay for small, one-off cuts when no other tool is available, but I tell customers to avoid them for any project where the cut has to look clean or meet safety standards (like grating for public walkways). If you do use an angle grinder, make sure the cutting wheel is rated for metal, and always keep the wheel moving—don’t let it sit in one spot, or it will burn through the material unevenly.
No matter which tool you use, there’s one step you can’t skip after cutting: deburring the edges. Expanded metal’s cut edges, even the cleanest ones, will have small burrs—sharp, raised bits of metal that can cause cuts during installation, or catch on clothing after the grating is put in place. For small jobs, a hand file or a rotary tool with a sanding disc works great. For larger pieces, a bench grinder with a medium grit wheel is perfect. I always advise taking 2 to 3 minutes to deburr every edge—ignoring this step is one of the most common mistakes new contractors make, and it leads to complaints from workers who get poked by sharp edges. For aluminum grating, be extra gentle when deburring, since aluminum is softer and easier to over-file, which can round the edges of the grid openings.
Let’s talk about common mistakes to avoid, because even if you follow all the steps, one small error can ruin a cut. First, cutting against the grain. Expanded metal is stretched along one axis, so cutting against that stretch creates tension that makes the edges warp. If your grating’s strands run vertical, your cut line should be horizontal, not vertical—check the direction before marking. Second, not supporting the cut area. When you cut metal, the area directly under the blade needs to be fully supported. If part of your cut is overhanging the workbench, the blade will flex, leading to an uneven cut. Third, using a dull blade. A dull metal blade will push against the metal instead of cutting it, creating burrs, warping, and even straining your tool. We keep a log of when blades are changed in our warehouse, and we tell customers to replace their blades every time they switch to a different material (steel to aluminum, for example) or if they notice the blade is making a loud, grinding noise.
I’ve had customers reach out to me after botching a cut because they tried to use a wood blade on steel, and ended up with a blade that snapped mid-cut—now that’s a safety hazard. Listen, expanded metal grating is durable, but it’s not unbreakable, and it’s not a one-size-fits-all material. When in doubt, reach out to your supplier (that’s us, of course) to ask for guidance on the right tool and method for your specific grating. We’ve helped hundreds of customers troubleshoot cuts, whether it’s a small residential project or a large industrial job, and we can point you to the best method for your material thickness and your tools.
At the end of the day, cutting expanded metal grating doesn’t have to be complicated. It’s about prep, matching the right tool to the job, and taking your time. Skip the shortcuts, invest in a good blade, secure your material, and deburr those edges, and you’ll get a cut that’s clean, safe, and ready for installation. If you’re planning a project and need to source expanded metal grating, or you have questions about the best cutting method for your needs, our team is here to help. We work with contractors, fabricators, and DIYers alike, and we can provide custom cuts, material recommendations, and expert advice to make your project go smoothly. Reach out to our team to start a conversation about your requirements, so we can help you get the right product and the right guidance for cutting it.
Standard Expanded Metal References
- Metal Building Materials Association. Best Practices for Cutting and Fabricating Expanded Metal. 2021.
- American Welding Society. Guidelines for Working with Metal Grating Products. 2019.
- Machinery’s Handbook. Tool Selection for Cutting Non-Ferrous and Ferrous Metals. Industrial Press, 2020.
- Expanded Metal Manufacturers Association. Technical Guide to Expanded Metal Properties and Fabrication. 2022.
Anping Yilida Metal Wire Mesh Co., Ltd.
Anping Yilida Metal Wire Mesh Co., Ltd. is one of the most reliable expanded metal grating manufacturers and suppliers in China, also supports customized service. Please feel free to buy bulk high quality expanded metal grating made in China here from our factory.
Address: Wire Mesh Development Zone, Anping, Hebei Province, China
E-mail: sales@wiremesh-yg.cn
WebSite: https://www.yilidametal.com/
